best me moment: catching my first wave.
It's mid august, I'm with my brother in law Kelly. He's at my side and we're in Tofino. Right in front of us he and I are about to attempt our first ever sojourn into the realm of "totally radical dude!" that being surfing. It was one mofo'ing hot day, sunny as heck and the perfect way to enter. We weren't nervous one bit, as we'd already decided against surf lessons. We felt the addaged quote courtesy of Gary Busey from the movie Point Break completely on our side "I mean, how hard can it be?".
Was he right?.....nooooooooooooo!!!!
It looks simple but surfing is hard shit. Firstly getting up isn't easy, the movement and pressure of the water pushes you in so many directions that getting a good footing on the board takes time and practice. Something we didn't have as this would be our only day on the water. Secondly, knowing when to pop up is key and well something you learn over time, yet again something we didn't have. But perserverance stems the tide, well at least we hoped. We would try our best over the course of the day with some luck here and there, however, a few falls came and went with much salt water ingested (yuk!). But as fate would have it we would eventually get the hang of things. I credit this partially on practice and some on having watched this 12 year old kid surf circles around us all afternoon. This irked us both and me especially. Why?, who knows. I mean he'd most likely been doing this for years so thinking we'd all of sudden be better or just as good as he was had to be of sheer idiocy. But I will say that what most likely set me off was watching that kids last run pass right by my soggy crushed face, I'd had enough. I wanted to crush him!!!!! Literally. Therefore, over the next 20 or so minutes I focused steadfast on doing at least one good run. I wanted to show his little ass that I could belong, even if it was for just one lucky ride.
So then I set off with the words paddle, jump, pop circling in my head over and over as I waded my way out looking for one good set. Sitting there on my board in the hot penetrating sun as others passed me by, my initial reaction was that I was way in over my head. Thinking I could surf one good run on my first day of surfing without lessons had to be one of my most arrogant challenges yet. I could have turned in, said I tried my best and lived with it, surfing was new to me and something I might never do again. No one would care and if they asked I could even lie. Who would know? But just as these doubtful thoughts raced around my psyche my eyes quickly caught my reflection in the water below. There I was, a wet 30 year old kid looking into the abyss of my life. Was I quitter? Fuck no! Inner reflections now aside, in the end mostly I said fuck it. Go and do it, what do ya gotta lose.
The next few rides went better, I almost got up on one, slipped on another and I ate it on the next. But on my 4th ride after hours of trying I finally hit a set that looked promising. As I paddled away trying to hit the wave at the right moment, I suddenly started to feel as if I belonged amongst the hippie haired kiddies all around me (I have long hair too, so i guess that reference insult doesn't much do it huh?...whatever you get my point). Then the waves hit me and I suddenly jumped on my board. My feet had planted firmly for once...yeah!!!! Now on board I slowly brought myself to a standing position as said wave carried me onward. Now standing, with my arms flailing away in desperate attempts to stay on the board a thought quickly crossed my mind "Oh My God I'm surfing!!!" As was the case during my first sexual encounter, the next 11 seconds passed me by in a blur with me looking shocked and scared. But who cares....I DID IT!!! I DID IT!!!! I DID IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I SURFED! YEAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!
Tired? I sure am, that was fun and even more fun to remember.
In the end as my ride came to a stop I landed on the sandy shores with the sun on my smiling face, sand up my ass and sea weed in my hair and all I could do was think "fuck you kid, I can surf too!".
Best 2010 moment for sure. I tried something I never thought I would, I overcame inner obstacles and I achieved a modicum of success. Isn't that what life's all about.
Next up: best day
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